Bowhunting Western Big Game

	*How do you feel about the use of mechanical broadheads on Elk? What kind of broadheads do you use on elk? Thank you for your consideration.* - randy brown 07/18/2003, ID=2185
	Randy, The fact that a number of people have asked me this question tells me that many people have doubts. And if you have doubts, then I suggest you stick with the proven gear. While I have heard some raves over the performance of mechanical heads on elk, I also have heard a number of less-than-perfect stories. Most of those involve either mechanical failure of the broadhead or lack of penetration. Such stories cast some doubt in my mind, and I'm not willing to experiment on an elk to find out if the heads will work for me. I've had excellent results with fixed-blade heads, most notably Barrie Ti-125 and Thunderhead 125 broadheads -- good penetration, no mechanical failures, quick kills -- so why mess with success? If you shoot 60 pounds or heavier draw weight (I assume you're shooting a compound or you wouldn't be talking mechanicals) you will probably get adequate penetration. And if you pick a proven broadhead make, such as NAP or Barrie, the heads should be plenty durable. Given these parameters, I have no doubt you'll do fine with mechanicals. Still, nobody ever asks me whether I think fixed-blade heads are adequate for elk. So they must have no doubts about such heads. To me that answers the question. Shoot straight, Dwight Schuh

	I'll be hunting antelope in Nevada this year and as usual I planned to be hunting from a blind at a water hole. I've always built blinds 3 - 4 weeks before the season and taken them down at the end of the season. However, this year while getting ready to build the blind a BLM range cop came up and told us we weren't allowed to build a 'permanent' structure on BLM land. Permanent being defined as anything with 3 or 4 walls that you can't pick up and carry off, or anything that would remain unattended overnight. As he left he said, 'Consider yourself warned, I'll be looking for your truck during the season'. I'm not questioning the legality his statements, so I'm left with either stalking, decoying or using a pop up blind. I've chosen the pop up blind and ordered a Double Bull recurve model in Predator Deception Camo. So my question is, do you have knowledge or experience using a pop up blind for antelope? Are they effective when set up the morning of a hunt and are there ways to make them more effective when cover is limited to sage brush less than two feet tall? - Scott Tilzey 06/26/2003, ID=2180
	Scott, Congratulations on drawing MY antelope tag. I hope it pays off for you. But it sounds as if the BLM is not going to make things easy for you. The guy you ran into must have had a fight with his wife. He needs to call Dr. Laura. Since I didn't receive your question until the season had already started, my answer is probably irrelevant. At any rate, I think you can do okay with a Double Bull blind. While I have not had this experience myself, I have talked with other guys who have set up blinds in the morning and have had antelope come in that same day. And if you do this for several days during the season, setting up before dawn and leaving after sundown, the antelope will get used to it. I think it helps to tie some brush to the blind, but in 2-foot-high sage, you can't do much to blend it in. But, then, we all know that antelope will ignore a plywood blind 20 feet from a waterhole. So I suspect they'll ignore a Double Bull -- even if it's only been there for a day. Good luck, Dwight

	*I am looking at getting a treestand, what would you recommend for a good comfortable treestand? Thanks Jimmy* - Jimmy 06/26/2003, ID=2179
	Jimmy, Summit's new stands, both climbers and fixed position, are hard to beat. They are light, stable, and easy to use. Same for Lone Wolf. The Lone Wolf stands are very solid and quiet. And they're easy to put up. I love my Lone Wolfs (Wolves?). These aren't the only good stands on the market, but you won't go wrong with either of these companies. Let me end with a little sermon: Wear a safety harness. Puleeese! Dwight Schuh

	I was wondering what your thoughts are on how moon phases effect elk during the rut. I've seen alot of articles on moon phases and whitetails, but not much on elk behavior during the different phases. Thanks Steven - Steven 06/25/2003, ID=2178
	Steven, All the guys selling moon charts and books will label me a total blockhead, but, in my humble opinion, the moon means nothing in elk hunting. I've had great bugling during full moons, during dark moons, and during every phase between. And I had lousy bugling during all of those conditions, too. Whether moon position in the sky means anything, I don't know. But I do know I've had great bugling throughout many given days, so the activity was sustained through numerous moon positions. I think air temperature and other weather conditions have far more bearing on elk activity. Essentially that means, cool weather, good activity throughout the day; hot weather, poor daytime activity. A single cow in heat can light up a lot of bulls, too, and when she gets bred, everything will suddenly go dead. Hunting pressure and harassment also can have a major effect on daytime bugling. If the elk are getting pounded too hard, they'll just switch to chousing each other at night. In short, I think other influences have far more bearing on elk activity during the rut. The moon, in my opinion, is irrelevant. Dwight Schuh

	I shoot a 55lb. osage self-longbow that is 66 inches long. My arrows are 500 grains, with a 2-blade Bear Razorhead. It is not a speed demon by any means, but hits relativly hard. Do you think this set-up is adequete for elk at 25 yards or less? - Brad Merkel 06/25/2003, ID=2177
	Brad, While I don't have a similar bow to test, I'm certainly familiar with laminated longbows. And judging from my knowledge of them, and realizing that your bow probably has slower cast than the average laminated longbow, I would say you're on the edge. Or, let's just say you probably don't have an excess of power, which means you don't have much margin for error. I believe your bow will do the job, but in order for it to do it, you must do yours. In my mind, that means you must shoot ultra-sharp, two-blade heads, and you must wait for broadside shots. If you place the arrow in the lower one-third of the chest on a broadside elk, I believe you will get adequate penetration for clean kills. But I personally would not recommend quartering shots. Your arrow simply has to go through too much body to reach the vitals. Good luck with your longbow. You'll know some real satisfaction when you bag an elk with it. Dwight Schuh

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