- Joe Giacomazzi 06/05/2003, ID=2162

Joe,

I have tried a number of peep sights, but the one I always go back to is the Fletcher Tru-Peep. It sits in the string at an angle so that when you draw the string, the peep turns to a true vertical position and you're looking straight through the peep. It has no tubing, so you have to "train" it to turn at just the right angle. I use the model with the largest aperture. You can drill out the hole for even greater visibility, but I haven't found that necessary. (Jim Fletcher Archery, P.O. Box 218, Bodfish CA 93205; (760) 379-2589; www.fletcherarchery.com)

Most of the bows I've shot lately are 34-37 inches long, and I'm quite happy with those lengths. I'm not real crazy about the 32-inch and shorter models. There just doesn't seem to be enough bow there for me. Maybe it's all in my head. At any rate, the Tru-Peep works fine on the bows I shoot. I think it will work on the shortest bows, because of the way it sits at an angle in the string. Peeps that sit parallel to the string will sit at an angle to your eye at full draw, and that definitely can cut down visibility at full draw.

Incidentally, I'm not sure what you mean by "did you have to raise your anchor point?" Did I have to raise it in relation to what? I've always kept the same anchor point. I just move the peep in the string until it sits squarely in front of my eye.

- Jesse Roberts 06/02/2003, ID=2151

Jesse,

I would assume the broadheads you are shooting have always functioned correctly and have proven durable on deer? (Otherwise, why would you keep using them?) If so, I would say you're in good shape on caribou. While caribou are probably three times as big as your average Southern deer (mature caribou bulls will weigh in the 400-pound range), they are not particularly tough animals. At 70 pounds, your Q2 should generate plenty of energy to ensure adequate penetration on caribou. If you were shooting 50 pounds, I would probably give a different answer.

Shoot a couple of nice bulls.

Dwight

- Rob 05/26/2003, ID=2141

Rob,

For elk I personally recommend fixed-blade heads. I know, all the open-on-impact fans will jump on me for such ignorance, but I think good fixed-blade heads aren't broke, so why fix 'em? For deer, mechanicals are probably great. But I've heard enough "failed to work" and "failed to penetrate" stories in regard to elk and mechanicals, that I recommend the safe, proven route. And that's fixed-blade heads. Whether they're solid or replaceable-blade makes no difference as long as you shoot quality, durable, precision-made heads.

Grain weight makes no difference in relation to the animal you're hunting. Total arrow weight and quality of arrow flight are the important factors. For example, I personally shoot 125-grain heads (Barrie Ti-125 or Thunderhead 125), while Dave Holt, Technical Editor for Bowhunter shoots 100-grain heads (Barrie Ti-100s, I believe). I have great success with my arrows, he has great success with his. Makes no difference as long as you put the arrow through both lungs or the heart.

Shoot straight,

Dwight Schuh

- Jim 05/21/2003, ID=2137

Jim,

Yes, you're right, I hear almost the identical question regularly. And my answer is always the same: A 65-pound compound is more than adequate. The bow will do the job. The person behind it is the only concern. Can you put an arrow in the boiler room? If so, you've got a dead elk on your hands.

Just one thought on range: You say you practice out to 55 yards. That's great, because it helps fine-tune your shooting skills. But I personally would consider that a very long shot on elk. Perhaps in the open sage such a shot would be feasible, but most elk hunting takes place in timber, where you cannot judge obstructions such as limbs, twigs, and leaves. And generally you have little time for range estimation. So, I would say in a real-life elk hunting situation, you should try for shots of 20 to 30 yards. That's where you'll make your sure, clean kills.

The only thing you can do to acclimate to high elevations is to spend time at high elevations. Thus, I would recommend you arrive in your hunting area three or four days before you really start hitting it hard, especially if you're going to be hunting at 12,000 feet in Colorado. You could be sucking wind there for awhile. I do think it helps to arrive in good shape. It will take you less time to adapt. It sounds like you have a good training program, but I would suggest you kick the running up to 30 miles or so per week. That will give you just that much more endurance. And one thing I will guarantee you -- you can't be in TOO good of shape.

Have fun,

Dwight Schuh

- Chris 05/17/2003, ID=2134

Chris,

I think your rig will do the job, but it is by no means excessively heavy. Wait for a close, broadside shot and put the arrow low in the chest. With that scenario, you'll do fine. Increasing arrow weight will give you slightly more kinetic energy (and momentum), but whether it will give you enough more to be worthwhile is debatable. (Obviously, some heavy-arrow advocates will say I'm totally nuts.) The only way to increase the energy level of your arrow significantly is to increase your draw weight or draw length. But those probably are not feasible options.

To summarize, I think your rig will work fine. Simply use durable, super-sharp, two-blade heads, and pick your shots carefully. And send me a photo of the results.

Dwight Schuh

Be sure to visit Dwight Schuh's Website - Dwight Schuh is perhaps the most respected authority on bowhunting Western big game. The author of numerous books including "Hunting Open Country Mule Deer" and "Bugling for Elk" is here to answer your specific questions on bowhunting Western Big Game.