- Jack Forrester 03/30/2004, ID=2334

Jack,

I'm a little curious as to why you're dropping from 72-pounds draw weight to 48 pounds. But to answer your question, yes, I think the 48-pound bow will do the job. However, it's none too heavy. I recommend that you wait for a perfectly broadside shot. On a quartering shot, the 48-pounder might not have enough oomph to push the arrow all the way through the vitals.

Best of success,

Dwight Schuh

- Ken 12/28/2003, ID=2296

Ken,

Whether it really works, I do not know. And I doubt that anyone can scientifically prove whether it works. It's a theory. Fred Bear subscribed to the same theory regarding his Razorheads. He sharpened them with a file to leave serrations on the blades, believing this would make a wound that would leave the best blood trail.

Personally I don't buy that. I want broadhead blades as sharp as possible, and the sharpest blades have smooth edges.

Truth be known, it probably makes no difference, smooth or serrated. If you put the arrow through the lungs or heart, the animal will die in such a short distance, you won't have to worry about following a blood trail. Bottom line is, I would focus on good shot placement with a razor sharp broadhead. If you achieve that goal, you will achieve your goal.

Shoot straight,

Dwight Schuh

- Joe Richards 10/29/2003, ID=2242

Joe,

I've hunted the Mt. Adams area myself. Killed a spike there. The weather was sunny and warm at the time. That's just an aside and has nothing to do with your question.

I have not seen rain deter elk a lot. In fact, it seems to me they like rain and often are active all day in a steady rain. However, I certainly have seen elk disappear when major storms move through, whether those storms bring rain or snow. I suspect it has to do more with a dropping barometer than with precipitation.

One problem with rain is that it dampens sound, so to speak, so that your calling doesn't carry as well and you don't hear as well. You may have to get down in the brush with the elk where you can hear them at close range and where your proximity with them will get them stirred up and force them to respond. In other words, you may simply have to get more aggressive -- get closer and call more.

If a barometric change has shut them up, you may have to wait until the weather stabilizes before they really get cranking again. Sometimes the bugling activity ebbs and flows, and it will be good some days and bad other days, regardless of your efforts. So don your raingear and keep after them. Sooner or later things will break loose.

I hope this helps a little.

Dwight Schuh

- Al Lunzman 09/15/2003, ID=2232

Al,

In my opinion, screw-in steps are the most difficult and most dangerous devices for climbing trees. Not only are they hard to screw into most trees, especially those with solid wood like oaks, but if you ever slip on a screw-in step, you most likely will gut yourself.

I far prefer strap-on steps to screw-ins. They're much easier to install. Using a climbing belt, you can set 10 strap-on steps in a matter of minutes. And they're legal everywhere. Screw-in steps are illegal on many public areas, and some landowners probably don't like them, either.

With all of that said, I far prefer climbing ladders and sticks to individual steps. My favorites might be the Rapid Rails. They're simply small, lightweight, aluminum ladders you secure to the tree with polypropylene rope. Quick, easy, and above all, safe. Three sections will easily get you 15 feet high. I don't have a current phone number for Nontypical Treestands, the company that made Rapid Rails. A company called Hunter's View makes a similar climbing ladder (www.huntersview.com). I'm sure many other companies do too.

The SwifTree by Summit is an excellent climbing stick. It has closed steps so you won't emasculate yourself if you slip, and you can grasp the central column for security as you climb (www.summitstands.com).

As a general statement, then, I would say the best way to climb is with climbing ladders and climbing sticks, not individual steps. Of course, climbing stands still have their place, and in our lodgepole pine/fir forests here in the West, I often use a climber over a fixed position stand. The Summit Bushmaster is a good one. Also, you can't beat the Lone Wolf (www.lonewolfstands.com). Ol' Man climbers are also excellent (www.olmantreestands.com).

One last thing -- use a climbing belt to install any climbing system. And when you get onto your stand platform, always wear a good safety harness.

Safe climbing.

Dwight Schuh

- Jim Anderson 09/11/2003, ID=2228

Jim,

Go to the P&Y website at http://www.pope-young.org/ and click on Minimum Scores. You will find them all listed there for quick reference.

Good hunting,

Dwight Schuh

Be sure to visit Dwight Schuh's Website - Dwight Schuh is perhaps the most respected authority on bowhunting Western big game. The author of numerous books including "Hunting Open Country Mule Deer" and "Bugling for Elk" is here to answer your specific questions on bowhunting Western Big Game.