| Poor man plot |
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By:
tommygun
Date:10-Mar-17
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Well I'm jumping into the food plot craze. Leased 165 acres in lower Michigan last two years and decided it would be good time to try. Whitetail institute clover is my choice on 2 tracks about 1/8-1/4 acre at first. See where it takes me. Ordered soil sample kit and clover. Going to try to do this correct the first time. Using limited tools.
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By:
kellyharris
Date:10-Mar-17
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Tommygun
I am not much into food plots because they slash timbered about 300 acres where I hunt and what little open land I have is surrounded by very tall trees which equals lots of shade. Lots of shade equals little growth. I had more time in than growth.
I know a few others who never thought much about shade being a factor I just wanted to share so its in your notes.
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By:
Medicinemann
Date:10-Mar-17
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Lots of good threads on here about foodplots....even a foodplot forum. I'd encourage you to do a search. I'd also encourage you to consider www.grandparaysoutdoors.com
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By:
tommygun
Date:10-Mar-17
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Have nice clearing in woods that deer walk through regularly. Kind of natural pinch between two corn/soybean fields. Big part in getting natural grass taken care of. Hope to rake most off before greens up. Get soil sample. Then worry about it after turkey season.
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By:
Scooby-doo
Date:10-Mar-17
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Once that greens up spray it with round up, then you can just burn or rake it off to get started. Scooby
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By:
35-Acre
Date:10-Mar-17
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This article has a lot of great information, so you might want to check that out. It really tells you how to prep a field like you've got in that photo. Remember that clover really doesn't do much until the second year (the first is root establishment). So you might want to do something with it.
I've had limited success in food plots after a few years so I am actually switching over to trees that will provide a good food source but can be selectively planted in what "could have been" a field. I can then create funnels, shooting lanes, and cover. I ordered about 300 trees for under $200 (apple, Toringo Cranberry, Highbush cranberry, hazelnut, spruce, red stem dogwood - which deer love to rub in my area) from the local branch of the conservation office, plus a few chestnut trees. At the end of the season last year I also picked up some pear and apple trees from the local "big box store" at a deep discount and planted those on the edges of the field.
Of course - just to be clear - I'm not planting 300 trees in the field. I am planting them in other openings around the property as well. Having that kind of food source and cover will hopefully draw them in. And will allow me to have some time off from the sweat equity of maintaining the food plot.
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Date:10-Mar-17
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White clovers are shade tolerant. Should be good with your choice if pH is fine.
Good luck.
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By:
Mark Watkins
Date:10-Mar-17
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As stated, lots of good advice on here.....have fun and enjoy every minute of working the land and watching the critters re act to your efforts!
Mark
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By:
kellyharris
Date:10-Mar-17
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I have always wanted a plot that's decent in size with fruit trees running down the middle or a tasty nut tree or two for deer.
Out of my 1036 acres I bet I only have 1.3 acres of clear ground and those are surrounded by 80 to 110 foot high trees
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By:
drycreek
Date:10-Mar-17
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I've grown Whitetail Institute clover in pretty heavy shade, kinda pricey, but deer definitely love it.
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By:
patience2spare
Date:10-Mar-17
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Personally, I would burn off that grass so that when green up starts you get better contact with your Round Up. Get a few friends to help you and wear a 6 gallon backpack sprayer full of water. The grass will burn hot and fast but it's pretty easy to guide the fire on a LIGHT wind day with the sprayers. I would also mow or disc a fire break on the upwind side and burn into the wind.
I have had tremendous success with Whitetail Institute Chickory Plus in a plot almost exactly like your picture here in Northeast Indiana. Deer LOVE chickory and it seems to take off faster than the clover which is also in the Chickory Plus mix. By the second year, with good mowing maintenance, you will have a beautiful carpet of white clover and chickory!!!
Good luck. Food plots can be a blast and extend your deer season into more months out of the year. Pete
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By:
CurveBow
Date:13-Mar-17
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Midwestwhitetail.com has stuff about poor mans plots. Bill Winke gets into that stuff with video details.
>>>>-------->
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By:
sir misalots
Date:20-Mar-17
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I just read an article about rye grass. Nutritionally inferior to most choices , but it will grow anywhere and deer will eat it.
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By:
LKH
Date:20-Mar-17
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Backpack is a great idea, but get a 3 gallon. If you have to kneel down or go under, you'll start to hate the 6 gal when it's full. I have 2 and they are priceless.
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By:
tommygun
Date:24-Mar-17
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Received my soil test results. Need little line and potash. Pinch of nitrogen. Have most grass raked off before it greened up and have good soil exposed Question would be should I fertilize/lime/seed now then spray with Arrest if and when grasses grow up or wait to spray with Roundup then seed? Unsure about timing with seeding and grass competition
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By:
drycreek
Date:24-Mar-17
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I'm in the south and you're not, but here is my regimen for start-up plots. First, after the plot is cleared of trees, bushes or whatever was there, I disc and drag. You may not have the means for that, but killed the existing vegetation and burning or raking it off serves the same purpose. Add your lime and work it in if you can. Clover needs a smooth seedbed because the seeds are so tiny. If they fall in cracks or crevices too deep they won't germinate. Seed the plot, and roll or drag it, or plant immediately before a rain. Wait until whatever grasses and weeds come up and are growing before spraying, but don't wait until they get too big. Use Clethidem for grass, and Butyrac 200 for weeds. Follow the directions for spraying. Don't buy Arrest or Slay, as they are way more expensive and do the same thing as those I mentioned. Sorry Whitetail Institute, but it IS a poor man's plot ! Clover needs to be mowed at least a couple times each year, I usually mow mine three times at about eight inches high. May be hard to do without a tractor. Don't mow it if it's heat stressed. Learned that the hard way as I do most lessons. Good luck !
