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Clover- How Much Gly for Weed Control?
Food Plots
Messages posted to thread:
Hunt98 12-May-17
Pat Lefemine 12-May-17
pav 12-May-17
elkstabber 12-May-17
hillbender 12-May-17
Teeton 12-May-17
Ollie 12-May-17
Hunt98 12-May-17
Scooby-doo 12-May-17
Single bevel 12-May-17
MK111 12-May-17
rodb 13-May-17
joshuaf 14-May-17
nutritionist 14-May-17
Habitat for Wildlife 14-May-17


By: Hunt98
Date:12-May-17

I have an established clover plot that has grass and weeds in it. I want to try gly to control the weeds but not kill the clover.

I have 41% Gly.

Is there a recommended gly ounces to gallon of water ratio for weed control?

Date:12-May-17

Don't use glyphosate. Use 2-4dB butyrac

By: pav
Date:12-May-17

Ditto Pat. Glyphosate will kill the clover. We use 2-4DB Butyrac at a rate of 3oz/gallon and no surfactant.

Date:12-May-17

Hunt98: In order to use glyphosate on clover you will have to wait until the clover goes dormant. If the clover isn't dormant the glyphosate will kill it. In the southern states we can spray a very light glyphosate during a drought in July or August because that's the only time our clover goes dormant but it's risky. It's not that effective because if the clover is dormant enough to spray then most of the weeds are too. If you're in MN (as your profile says) your clover probably never goes dormant so you can't use glyphosate. Use 2-4 dB as Pat said.

Date:12-May-17

As mentioned you can use a dilute Gly mix on clover during dormancy but now may not be the time. I have used POAST some years ago for a clover cleanup. It was affordable and yielded pretty good results but theres a lot of other grass specific chemicals out there to do the job.

By: Teeton
Date:12-May-17

I do know that spraying gly in clover is done. But if you got other stuff that will not kill clover or can get it I would. .. I have never tried (gly) on clover. But if you got an acre of clover and want to try it on say 3000 Sq foot. I would spray, making sure I'm spraying so the wind will not blow it into the clover I'm not spraying. If I remember right it's only 1oz to a gallon. It does set the clover back from what I read,, but it comes back.

By: Ollie
Date:12-May-17

Glyphosate is not registered for use on clover. It took time and money to establish your clover plot. Some people on this website will tell you to go ahead and use glyphosate. Personally, I would not risk my clover plot doing this. Clethodim is registered for use on clover to kill grass weeds. 2,4-DB is registered for use on clover to kill broadleaf weeds.

By: Hunt98
Date:12-May-17

How much do you pay for 24db?

Does it come in different concentrates?

Date:12-May-17

Pat times 1000!! Scooby

Date:12-May-17

Spraying a weak mixture of glyphosate is not a good idea. Glyphosate-resistant weeds are becoming an issue throughout the country. If you don't already have some gly resistant weeds, then you may create some by misusing the herbicide. There's nothing wrong with 41% gly, I use it all the time. And herbicide is applied ounces per acre, not ounces per gallon.

Ed Spinazzola advocated spraying clover with weak gly in his book. Ed is a very experienced food plotter, but he's wrong on that one. But the date he wrote that was prior to the problem of gly resistance. I have done it years ago and it worked okay. It did knock back some weeds and the clover recovered, but have I created some long-term weed problems? Now, I'd either try clover safe herbicides, or spot spray before I used weak gly. You'll have less weed issues in the long run if nuke the plot and start over in September than spraying weak gly.

Something else to consider is the water you are using. Certain minerals/hardness in waterman pretty much render an herbicide useless unless the water is pre-treated with AMS (ammonium sulfate). There was an excellent thread about that exact thing on that defunct forum. You mention "grass and weeds". Are you 100% certain it's grass and not sedge? Clethodim is a very good and inexpensive grass herbicide but it won't work on sedge. 24db (for use on broadleaf weeds) is safe on clover but a lot of weeds just laugh at the stuff. And timing is another aspect. A lot of herbicides need to be applied when the weed is in an early growth stage and other weeds (like milkweed) should be sprayed later in the season.

Last thought...What are your broadleaf weeds in your clover? They ain't all bad. Some weeds are actually highly preferred forage in some areas. My deer go crazy over ragweed. They eat it before the eat beans. Know exactly what "weeds" you are dealing with before you decide how or if you want to fight them. I've waisted a lot of effort and money trying to create a perfectly clean food plot. Hairy Galinsoga is an example of a weed that shows up in my food plots in later summer. I used to get annoyed at the stuff until I realized how much my deer like it. They don't eat it early on, so I got the idea it was a problem. But later in the plant cycle, they eat it to the ground. There are some other weeds like that. BTW, Keystone Pest Solutions is a good place to buy 24db. You can go to their website and read the labels. And Wes Weaver knows his stuff and is very helpful. How old is that clover plot? Maybe it's time to start over? Maybe plant a nitrogen lover to suck up the N the clover has made.

By: MK111
Date:12-May-17

I agree it's best to listen to the guys and not use gly on clover. You might get away with it 10 times then it will catch up with you and ruin everything you have going for you. Like my dad always said 'the hardest way is always the easist way'. That quote drives my son crazy but it almost always pans out correct.

By: rodb
Date:13-May-17

Well for someone that's done it with great success, use 2 oz to a gallon of water. If your plot is well established and doing great you shouldn't have any problems. I used glyphosate before I knew about Clethidom and 2-4DB.

Date:14-May-17

Clover is pretty tough stuff. I've tried to kill it a number of times (to get the field ready to plant something else) with a dose of Gly at 4-5 oz./gallon of water, and had no luck. It will knock it back, but it always comes back after a month or so. I've also tried spraying it at a lesser dose to kill weeds, but at a lesser dose it still knocks the clover back (though it will come back), but new weeds start growing rather quickly, sometimes before the clover recovers, then you're back to square one again.

I spray Clethodim in my clover plots to kill grass. I've tried Butyrac to kill non-clover broadleaf weeds, and in my experience, Butyrac is very weak. I didn't think it was very effective. If I'm trying to clean up a clover plot with a lot of broadleaf weeds, I just mow it, and then do it again a few weeks later. That seems to stunt the broadleaf weeds a fair bit and let the clover get back in front again.

Date:14-May-17

1- people overuse herbicides on perennials. If your issue is annual broadleaves, then clip every 30 days and they will be gone after the 2nd clip. If you have grass issues then use clethodim/arrow/select/volunteer or other grass killer. 2-anytime you stunt a forage your rolling the dice for glyphosate resistant weeds and your clovers and perennials if your stressing them, you better consider using foliar plant foods at the same time. 3-very few people have their sprayers calibrated effectively enough to use roundup on clovers. Too much chemical and you could severly injure the perennials. Not enough glyphosate and you might not have effective kill.

Date:14-May-17

Hesitant to post on these threads as they can get just about as bad as ones with 'mechanicals' in them, LOL.

So many variables in plotting that a standardized approach probably will not work for all, IMO.

Even those against gly with control of clovers have admitted it works with right conditions such as timing, concentration etc. I have stated the following on one thread in the past, and expect to get blasted again for doing so here.

It works for me. Here is what I do regarding clover. It is only used once per field before that field is totally turned under and planted to something else. I spray gly to extend the clover field's life for a year or two. This is after mowing has not kept control, and specialty herbicides are too expensive for me. Since most probably do not know how to calibrate their sprayers, or would not take the time, I have solid results with a 1.5% of 41% gly mix ratio to water with both a boom and boomless sprayer at normal ATC and/or tractor speeds. Normal mix ratio is 2%, and reading the label will confirm this even though ounces per acre are emphasized. In fact that is the ratio listed for spot spraying, which I understand places a high saturation rate on the plant so my ground speed makes sure I am getting adequate leaf coverage. (I only buy gly with surfactant added.)

Regarding gly resistant weeds, I doubt spraying a field every 4 years or so will cause this to any degree worth worrying about. Farmers have been spraying millions of acres for years and this is what is causing the weed resistant strains. It is common here for farmers to actually add some other herbicides to their gly now when prepping a field, and I believe some soybean seeds now are also gly and some weed killer resistance. If you have gly resistant plants it is probably from air born seeds being deposited on your land.

Up above someone said that not all weeds are bad. Last week I started a thread on just that, but no one responded. I do not worry about some weeds since deer are browsers and I notice they clip these plants right along with the clover. I start to try and manage the weeds and grass more when I notice a significant drop in use of that field.

More than my .02, but hopefully it will encourage others to experiment a little and learn. FYI, I have 60 acres of native grass I burn each year. I have 10-12' of bare ground around it as a barrier. I have to spray this each year before turning it, and I now add some weed killer to my gly because there are some weeds and the clover that appears that is not killed by the gly only.


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